Jun 20
Pharrell at Louis Vuitton Celebrates the Diversity of Human Skin in Paris UNESCO Show
Thomas Adamson READ TIME: 14 MIN.
With just over a month before the Paris Olympics, Louis Vuitton celebrated the beauty of humans and their skin in a star-studded menswear showcase at the headquarters of U.N. cultural agency UNESCO in Paris. Models wearing garb in all the hues of human flesh paraded around a giant globe on grass patterned in Vuitton's signature Damier check, creating a visual symphony of diversity.
Here are some highlights of spring 2025 shows:
Vuitton's Human
"It was an homage to human beings," said menswear designer Pharrell Williams, who name-checked the Summer Olympics, for a show that felt like a journey across continents against a backdrop of the Eiffel Tower and a giant shell globe. "It went from black to dark brown to brown to light brown to beige, a little bit of gray ... and then finally to white," the singer-turned-couturier said of the spring display.
The spectacular collection prominently featured checks in shades of green, blue and black, drawing inspiration from the designs of Air Afrique luggage. The airline, which operated from the 1960s for decades, has become a symbol of diasporic creativity, according to Vuitton. With contributions from creatives like Lamine Diaoune and Djiby Kebe, Williams infused the collection with a sense of global unity.
Inspired by the U.N. cultural headquarters populated with ambassadors, Williams explored various archetypes. The diplomat was featured in deep, rich tones of 1970s-inflected tailoring. The explorer appeared in sturdy yet stylish outerwear, including utility jackets and vests. The dandy, another key figure, strutted down the Damier-check grass runway in jackets and coats adorned with rhinestones and pearl embroidery.
Set against a dramatic sky, with shifting clouds and fluttering world flags, the collection's progression of colors mirrored the diversity of the models, moving from darker to lighter tones in multicultural harmony. This theme extended to the garments, which included pixelated python skin patterns and world maps centered on Africa. A reinterpretation of the Damier pattern featured pale brown checks with multicolored accents. Soccer ball leather designs paid tribute to the world's favorite sport.
The show, which was neat and saleable, blended complexity with apparent simplicity – amid the richness of the diaspora.
Enamel maps were embedded in buttons, and the LV logo appeared subtly embossed on materials. Intricate details like black-on-black embroidery and crystal and pearl accents added layers of sophistication. Elsewhere, vintage-inspired designs in soft leather had oversized monogram patterns and aged leather trims.
Once again, the celebrity designer made the show almost more about the act of putting on a spectacle, rather than a showcase for clothes. This appears to be the zeitgeist. Among the stars applauding were Alicia Vikander and Michael Fassbender.