Pharrell at Louis Vuitton Celebrates the Diversity of Human Skin in Paris UNESCO Show

Thomas Adamson READ TIME: 14 MIN.

Burna Boy arrives for the Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, June 18, 2024
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Speaking about the tumult of the world currently, and the prevalence of the world's flags around the U.N. building representing some nations at loggerheads or worse, Pharrell said that he would "never dare to think (this show) could be a reason for people to come together. But to present that notion (of peace) and to present the possibility in a poetic way, is the only thing that we can do."

Inspired by Kenzo's love for Henri Rousseau's jungle paintings, Nigo used these motifs as prints on several looks – including on loose suit jackets and pants. The result? A seamless fusion of Eastern and Western influences that has become signature.

Burna Boy arrives for the Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, June 18, 2024
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Fashion insiders delighted when a cuddly toy – a stuffed tiger – appeared perched on a model's shoulder. This kitsch moment of questionable genius saw Nigo cleverly reinterpreting Rousseau's masterpiece, which depicted the big cat.

Burna Boy arrives for the Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, June 18, 2024
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Urban vests adorned with colored flower gemstones that resembled insects, urban neon hoods, metallic net bags, and a sheath featuring an Asian garden scene around the Eiffel Tower further showcased Nigo's innovative use of fabrics, textures – and tongue-in-cheek humor. Designs elsewhere merged streetwear with luxury fashion, but one question persists of aesthetic: There's a lot of funk with Nigo, but is there enough finesse?

Burna Boy arrives for the Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, June 18, 2024
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

There are more important issues. As the luxury industry continues to grapple with issues of racism and diversity, Louis Vuitton menswear designer Pharrell Williams stood out as one of the few front row guests to give Nigo a standing ovation. It was a poignant moment.

Burna Boy arrives for the Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, June 18, 2024
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Saunders' Thespian Melting Pot

Bianca Saunders' models trod the broads for a spring collection Wednesday that riffed on the boho thespian – all upon an old-school bricked runway.

This latest collection by the British-Jamaican designer, known for her digital-first approach and inclusive designs, showcased her signature blend of minimalism and cultural references.

Pantomime-style boots in soft leather and plimsoll-style shoes fused with unexpected, haphazard touches and flashes of eye-popping blue created a melting pot feel. It was like a theater casting director had opened a chic dressing-up box. These elements highlighted Saunders' ability to mix tradition with modernity, a theme she consistently explores.

A blue mesh onesie and cap added an urban touch while playing on the theatricality present throughout the collection. Similarly, a satin blue foulard T-shirt shimmered beautifully with its generous proportions, emphasizing Saunders' knack for innovative use of textures and fabrics.

Netted bobble hats were a perfect archetype of the spring fare – part East London net shopping bag, part Old Master artist. This clever use of materials and accessories is a testament to Saunders' commitment to sustainability, often utilizing deadstock fabrics from platforms like Nona Source and materials from Positive Materials and Isko.

At times, Saunders seemed to align with fashion brand Loewe's latest aesthetics, yet she maintained her distinct identity through her cultural references and innovative approach to menswear.

Burna Boy arrives for the Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, June 18, 2024
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Mystical Meets Modern at Undercover

Crowns of golden thorns, sandals, and loose tunic-like jackets added a mystical quality to Undercover's spring. Designer Jun Takahashi masterfully blended high fashion with streetwear. The show, a spectacle of contrasts, felt both ancient and modern, drawing on the designer's knack for hybridization.

Loose silhouettes, distressed and deconstructed, paraded down the runway, effortlessly combining the avant-garde with the wearable. Though layered and busy, ensembles maintained a visual coherence that showcased Takahashi's meticulous approach to construction. His ability to mix familiar wardrobe staples imaginatively was on full display, from rough cotton and linens to striking prints.

Veils and lace adornments around the neck added an ethereal touch, evoking a sense of spiritual journey, while historic trains on some garments straddled both urban and Renaissance. Hoods on tracksuits, reminiscent of Mary Magdalene, yet infused with hip-hop mystique, showcased the designer's ability to draw from diverse cultural symbols.

A pleated printed skirt celebrated the passion of the nonbinary, further emphasizing Takahashi's commitment to inclusivity in fashion.


by Thomas Adamson

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